Sunday 26 January 2014

Mark Greenaway, Edinburgh

Whilst on a foodie trip to Edinburgh a while back now, I had made reservations for the highly acclaimed 'Castle Terrace', and the popular 'Angels with Bagpipes', however we had one night free, and wanted to try and find a nice place with a pre-theatre type menu. After a little bit of searching online, we came across the restaurant Mark Greenaway, being an avid watcher of the Great British Menu I recognised the name, and after doing a little more research about the place I tried phoning for a table that very evening. I was a little concerned about getting a table as the restaurant (which had gained an excellent reputation elsewhere in the city) had been moved to a new location on Castle Street only few weeks prior to us visiting. Nevertheless, I promised we would be in and out before another booked table arrived later in the evening, and thankfully they were incredibly accommodating.

We arrived for a relatively early dinner sitting to sample their incredibly well-priced 'Market Menu' (3 courses for £20 - and an additional £18.50 if you want to try their matched wine selection). The restaurant itself is contemporary, with crisp white table cloths and dim lighting, which adds to the moody romantic ambiance but made getting a clear photo particularly difficult! For a 'set menu' the choices were all very tempting, there were three options for each course, and luckily due to our different tastes, my partner and I both fancied different things (I particularly like it when this happens as it meant I could have small sample of his dishes too...purely for research purposes of course!).

Ham and Pork Ballontine, Scallop and apple
I opted for the smoked ham hough and pork ballontine with seared scallop, apple meringues, wild garlic mayonnaise and wild Scottish herbs. The picture here does not do it's presentation justice at all, it looked really beautiful, and the classic flavour combination of the tart apple with the sweet scallop and salty pork was a match made in heaven. Texturally it was well thought out too, with the meringues providing a necessary crunch, and the ballontine densely packed with meat similar to that of a good terrine which balanced the soft scallop wonderfully.

Duck egg, duck croquette.
My partner had the pan fried duck egg, duck croquette, brioche, duck ham and baby celery leaves, and I have to admit, I did get a bit of food envy. Despite my starter being delicious, you couldn't ignore the big hearty flavours of a runny egg yolk, crispy duck skin and sweet bread. It was posh comfort food at it's best, and a dish I could easily devour time and time again.

Bream fillet, salt cod and leek brandade
For main course I opted for the pan seared bream fillet, salt cod and leek brandade, and chive veloute. I actually didn't know what a brandade was before that evening, but being anything but a fussy eater, I decided to opt for it anyway and I wasn't disappointed. It was kind of a mixture of a potato-ey fish cake and bubble and squeak, but matched the bream, with it's perfectly crisp skin and the smooth creamy chive veloute faultlessly.

Belly pork, toffee apple jus
Across from me, my partner looked equally delighted with his main of 11 hour slow roasted 'Clash Farm' belly pork, with pomme puree, savoy cabbage and toffee apple jus. Again the flavour combinations were classic enough to make you feel right at home, but had a unique twist (which in this case was the toffee apple sauce) to give the dish that hint of flair and naughtiness, you often expect but don't always find in fine dining restaurants.

Broken chocolate tart
Having done a little bit of research beforehand I knew Mark Greenaway is famed for his weird and wonderful dessert creations (and now even presents an award each year to the most promising up and coming pastry chef in the city) we therefore knew we couldn't resist sampling (and finishing!) both of the sweet dessert options on the menu. I opted for his famous Broken (or 'Knot') chocolate tart, with custard jelly, frozen cookies, crème fraiche parfait, salted caramel and kumquat puree. Sounding like it had literally jumped out of the mind of Willy Wonka himself, I didn't quite know what to expect, but it was a chocoholics dream; rich thick chocolate ganache, creamy parfait, sweet fruit and caramel swirls, crunchy biscuit discs and even popping candy, I couldn't fault it's execution one bit.

Peanut Caramel cheesecake
The other option was the peanut caramel cheesecake, with salted caramel, warm toffee sauce and roasted peanuts, again was pretty as a picture, and tasted divine. Mark Greenaway really knows how to work with desserts, his imagination is out of this world, and even if you are not a dessert person, I urge you to try one of his creations.

Cheese plate
As if we hadn't had enough already, we asked if we could have the cheese plate on the market menu as an extra course to share, and the staff were more than happy to oblige. In rather high spirits, we also ordered a glass of their cheapest port each (however this was not available and the waitress bought out the pricier option at no extra cost)...an even greater reason to celebrate this wonderful find! We told the waiter to surprise us with the cheese, as we ate all kinds and he returned with a wonderful selection of hard nutty varieties, as well as soft, creamy ones and an excellent blue, this was accompanied by frozen grapes, quince jelly, celery and two kinds of cracker - an excellent end to a practically perfect dining experience. 

If I take into consideration the price, the service and the excellent quality of food, I personally think you would be pushed to find a more impressive restaurant than Mark Greenaway's. When we visited the restaurant it was still in it's infancy, and therefore small elements (like the toilets) did not exactly live up to the rest of the experience. I am sure now that these will have been revamped too, and regardless, this is an absolutely brilliant restaurant...you will not regret making a trip down to Castle Street to see for yourself.

Sunday 19 January 2014

Biddy's Tea Room, Norwich

British people are well known for their love of tea, in fact, whilst I write this very blog I'm sipping on a sweet cup of English breakfast myself. The long loved meal known as 'Afternoon Tea' was first said to have originated in the early eighteenth century, when a lady of the upper classes (Duchess Anna Russell of Bedford to be exact) believed her afternoon cup of Darjeeling would be much better served alongside some small finger sandwiches and a cake or two to fend off those mid afternoon hunger pangs before her evening meal. This old tradition is one I am extremely happy has stood the test of time, and Biddy's Vintage Tea room in Norwich does their own take on this afternoon treat absolutely perfectly in my opinion.

Exterior of Biddy's
Biddy's is actually tucked a little away from the hustle and bustle of the Norwich city centre, down the iconic and well loved 'Lanes' area, but it isn't difficult to find. The huge double fronted café with two big bay windows command attention as you walk past, and upon closer inspection the collection of antique and vintage items positioned in the windows really entice you to go in and have a look if nothing else. However I defy anyone who then didn't go on to browse the counter stacked full of takeaway delights, or even take a seat on some of the mismatched furniture and order from the extensive lunchtime menu.

Downstairs decoration
It is like you are stepping into a time warp upon entering the (now) double storey café. It is very British, with Union flag bunting and quaint kitsch lighting features everywhere, in fact, although completely miss-matched and a little crazy, I wouldn't be at all surprised if an individual with an interior design background dreamed this up - it is just too eclectic and unique to not be 'planned'. I have taken many a friend and family member to sample the foodie delights here and all have left with a real love for the authenticity of the place as well as the food - of which the majority is home made - or indeed locally sourced.

Afternoon Tea for Two
The pictures in this blog are two occasions when I sampled the 'real' afternoon tea experience, but I have also tried their soups, their ploughman's lunch and their pate which were all delicious. The above picture is of their afternoon tea for two (priced at £18.95), you obviously get to choose your tea, and you get a one choice of finger sandwich (three slices) plus yummy veggie crisps and homemade coleslaw. To finish off the tiered stand you can either choose one of their homemade cakes or a scone with jam and clotted cream - I find if sharing it is best to order one of both to get the best of both worlds! I believe the cake of choice above was a coconut and passion fruit cake which was gluten free and absolutely to die for - really rich, and perfectly cooked. The scones (plain, fruit and sometimes lavender) are (if you're lucky) served warm and are wonderfully crumbly.

Jubilee Tea
On another occasion, we were lucky enough to go to Biddy's for afternoon tea during the Queen's Jubilee week. Much to our surprise (and absolute delight) they were serving a special - even more patriotic (if that's even possible), tiered tea with ham and mustard, and coronation chicken finger sandwiches, mini Eton mess style meringues, union flag biscuits, mini Victoria sponges and of course, the traditional scone and accompaniments. This was wonderful, and the ladies creativity really shone through, a real treat for the taste buds and the eyes...

Biscuit eyes...
Whilst Biddy's provides an excellent place for a cheeky chat over cake or a more sophisticated lunch with family, they also offer hire of their linen and unique china, and do bespoke wedding cakes and 'mad hatter tea party' catering for any manner of events.

 
Party Hire
Biddy's is a bit of an institution in Norwich, I have introduced everyone I know to the place and it is often full to the rafters with people therefore booking (especially at weekends) is recommended. Eating here will definitely be worth your while though, and upon leaving you will not only feel full from lovely homemade pastries and cakes, but probably screaming the national anthem at the top of your lungs too.

http://www.biddystearoom.com/afternoontea.htm

Saturday 11 January 2014

Texture, London

A meal at 'Texture', a Michelin starred restaurant right next to marble arch in London, was bought for me as a Christmas present just over 12 months ago now (therefore I apologise in advance for my distinct lack of memory on certain parts of the meal)!
I had been tempted by Texture restaurant for as long as I can remember, partly due to it's unique focus on Icelandic cuisine and their tendency to discount the use of rich ingredients (such as butter), something so frequently used in other restaurants to add that opulent taste. 
Exterior
 

But predominantly because of their name...'Texture' is a word often used to praise (or indeed criticise) food on many of the cookery competition programmes taking over our evening screen viewing nowadays. It is a vital component of any dish, and has a profound impact upon the way an individual feels about the quality of a plate of food. To call a restaurant 'Texture', I felt it would have to deliver something rather special, above and beyond just great flavours...

Champagne bar
We booked in for a lunchtime - I do love taking advantage of the lunchtime sittings at these kinds of establishments, although lacking the possible finesse of an evening dining experience, you get excellent quality food alongside faultless service, and if you can take advantage of a set lunch menu, this often comes at a fraction of the price too.

Upon entering the restaurant you are welcomed by one of the wait staff who takes your coat - we arrived purposely a little early so we asked if we could sit in their bar for a bit (as opposed to heading straight to our table, which was actually ready). The bar is renowned as having one of the best champagne collections in London (five by the glass, and a further 110 by the bottle), and we decided to each opt for a champagne cocktail - priced at £10. My 'Luxury Mojito' was delicious, and just as the name suggested, the added sparkle of champagne worked perfectly with the sweet brown sugar and sharp lime juice. The cocktails were also accompanied by some complimentary bar snacks, sort of flat crackers of all different flavours, I believe some were seaweed, and others Parmesan, but this was a lovely touch to wet our appetite.

View of the kitchen from our table
After our little aperitif we were shown to our table in the restaurant which I believe was in prime position, right in front of the plating kitchen so we could see the chefs at work, and even had a glimpse or two of the particularly meticulous head chef, Agnar Sverrisson from time to time. The restaurant itself is very grand, obviously an old building with extremely high ceilings, this made the dining area itself feel rather small, but the chatter was fairly loud, a reason I was rather relieved our table was tucked away rather than being in the centre of the dining room.

Bread
Bread was bought to the table first, a sort of chunky rye bread, with creamed butter presented on a large grey pebble. Although very simple, the presentation was effective, and immediately gave me the impression that the food would be simple and rustic with elements of quirky surprise. This was quickly accompanied by an amuse bouche of a tiny cup of squash soup, brimming with bags of flavour and the necessary heat needed for a warming winter treat.

Anjou Pigeon with sweet corn and bacon popcorn
I opted for a starter and main off the a la carte menu, whereas my partner went for the set lunch menu (priced at around £25 for two courses, and £30 for three). I couldn't resist trying the Anjou pigeon, and I certainly was not disappointed - I'd go as far as to say, it is still to this day one of my favourite plates of food. The sweet smooth sweet corn puree went perfectly with the meaty rich pigeon and the added crunch of the salty bacon popcorn complemented the dish without fault.

New season beetroots with goats cheese
The other starter was a cold salad of new season English beetroots with goats cheese snow, while it didn't sound much on the menu, the dish looked as pretty as a picture, complete with edible flowers, and the noises coming from my partner were a sure fire sign that he was enjoying it. He later continued to praise the dish over and over for its simplicity and wonderful flavour combinations, so I knew it must have been an absolute hit!

Icelandic sea cod with pearl barley
Unfortunately the main course is where my memory becomes very hazy (possibly because, as you can see, the dishes are extremely similar and I was silly enough not to photograph the menus!). I am pretty certain that the above dish of Icelandic cod was the option chosen from the set lunch menu and this was accompanied by a creamy puree and pearl barley. The fish just flaked apart and with the other components made for a very clean, and fresh dish.

Poached turbot with sea vegetables
It is, unfortunately my dish where I become increasingly stuck. I would hazard a guess that I ordered turbot - the king of the flat fish. I distinctly remember how succulent the fish was, and full of flavour - something I was surprised (although incredibly happy) to find due to the way it was poached instead of cooked in the typical fatty butters or oils. The sea vegetables were also a wonderful accompaniment very salty and with a distinctive crunch which added an extra element to the dish.

I wish I could remember more about the dish, but unfortunately, for what ever reason, I cannot. Whether that be because of my earlier proposed idea regarding the similarity between the two dishes, or indeed the harsh fact that quite possibly it just wasn't as memorable as the starter or dessert from this restaurant. Either way, I remember it being delicious, really showcasing the fish (as it should be showcased), and without fuss or pretension.

Clementine and cinnamon rice pudding
Being the type of person who would often opt for an extra starter than a dessert I was incredibly surprised at how much I absolutely adored the dessert in Texture. My partner was happy with his two courses, however (purely for research purposes of course!), I managed to convince him to share the Clementine and Cinnamon rice pudding with me, and I did not regret that choice one bit. The rice pudding oozed creamy flavour and the clementine sauce, with whole orange pieces cut through the sweetness of the ice cream and rice brilliantly. The ice cream itself was a lovely contrast as the pudding was served warm, and the addition of little sultanas and sugared pistachios balanced the dish to make it both flavoursome and texturally perfect.

Cracker selection

Cheese and Port
We also opted for a 'Bernard Antony' French cheese plate (priced at £13.50) to share between us, with a glass of port each to wash it down (well you have to finish a meal properly don't you!?). This was lovely, and accompanied by some plump dried fruits and a sweet jelly, as well as more bread and crackers. The selection was well varied with a strong soft cheese (similar to a stinking bishop), a blue cheese and a hard nutty cheese, however I'd have liked to have seen a cheese trolley bought around t add an extra air of excitement rather than the selections and plating happening behind closed doors.

Petit fours
Finally the coffees were accompanied by a selection of petit fours, the traditional madeleine, a sort of peppermint meringue, chocolate truffles and coffee macaroons. All were delicious in their own right, however the meringue was a little strong when you take into account we were drinking a milky coffee. This was made up for by the divine macaroons which finished the meal with a perfectly crisp texture and creamy coffee centre.

Texture is a completely novel dining experience, unlike anything I have ever encountered before. The food was sublime, and it keeping with their Scandinavian brief. They undoubtedly delivered on Texture; an element I have to admit, I was expecting they may fall short upon, however (and I'm still not quite sure whether this is a positive or negative thing) I left feeling like I hadn't over indulged as you often do when you book into a restaurant of this quality. Either way, for the plating, flavours and textures, 'Texture' is an incredibly impressive venue, and one I would highly recommend.

http://texture-restaurant.co.uk/

Friday 3 January 2014

The Lost and Found, Birmingham

'The Lost and Found' located on Bennetts Hill in Birmingham is a completely immersive dining experience based on the explorations of Professor Hettie G. Watson. Situated inside a Grade II listed building with wonderful tiled floors and huge panelled ceilings it's certainly an impressive place with the wow factor. Pictured below are two of the dining areas, the library, with wonderful bookcase wallpaper and dimly lit tables. The garden terrace was where we were sat was beautiful with lights hanging from a wooden framework and jam jars filled with plants meant to emulate the botanical discoveries of Hettie on her travels.

The Lost and Found has a lovely atmosphere, with extremely friendly floor staff who quickly made the effort to get us a table in the already busy restaurant. The lighting is dim, which seemed to make the décor pop even more and definitely added to the drama of the venue without doubt, however it made taking clear photos rather difficult so I do apologise.

One of the dining areas

'Garden terrace' dining area
We were lucky enough to arrive during Hettie's Happy hour which meant 241 on selected cocktails which I will go on to discuss at the end of this blog but first I will mention the food we tried from their wonderful menu filled with both experimental and classical dishes.

Pigeon with beetroot puree and quince
I opted for a starter of Pan fried pigeon breast with beetroot puree, quince jelly, pistachio crumble, apple salad and balsamic vinaigrette. The portion size (although it does not appear this was in the picture) was a little small in comparison to the other starters on our table but the flavours were all excellent and the pigeon cook perfectly pink. The rocket added nothing other than a bit of colour however the sweet quince jelly completed the earthy beetroot and salty pistachios brilliantly.


Red Onion and Smoked cheese tart

 













Pork and Scallops

















There were two other starters ordered, a red onion and smoked cheese tart served with potato and fruit chutney, an absolutely huge portion - almost enough for a main course really due to the fact it was more of a pie than a tart which the menu described. However for a family of big eaters this was most definitely nothing to complain about and the pie was really well filled and full of flavour.

The other starter was pressed pork belly and pan seared scallops served with butternut puree and a shallot and tomato relish. I was incredibly tempted by this option too, and when I saw it arrive I have to admit the food envy set in. The classic combo of pork and scallops alongside a sweet, smooth squash puree worked wonderfully together and made for an excellent start to my Dad's meal.

Cod Loin with black olives and steamed mussels
My main course was a loin of cod with truffled mash, the fish was cooked to perfection in my opinion, however the accompaniment was a little too salty for my liking with the combination of mussels and olives. The seafood bisque was wonderful, really fresh and complimented the creamy mash, however, I'd have liked to have had some green veg with the dish, runner beans for example as although (again) rocket provided the splash of colour, it added nothing texturally or to the flavour of the dish.

Fish and Chips
















Whole baby chicken
















My Mum and Dad both opted for dishes with more of a pub classic feel and these were done very well (apart from the unnecessary rocket which was becoming a key theme throughout the dishes!). The chips on both plates were lovely, hand cut, and although they looked slightly over done, this was in fact just the skins which made them taste like very good wedges. The fish batter was crisp, the fish itself very fresh and the tartare sauce and minted mushy peas were fail safe sides but done with rustic flair. My Dads chicken was on the large side (again not really a complaint, especially when my Dad is concerned) but was very succulent and served alongside a crispy (yet rather spicy) red cabbage slaw which added texture and also a whack of heat on the palette.

'La Bonne Vie'


'Discovering Genever'

















'Broke Bankers'
Arriving just as the happy hour started was unintentional on our part, but made for an excellent surprise as the cocktail list was full renewed classics and also unique creations. My personal favourite was my first cocktail name 'La Bonne Vie', a chamomile tea infused vodka with flavours of elderflower and hibiscus syrup. It was like nothing I had ever tasted before, really amazing tea flavours but also the sweetness of the syrup and elderflower, I could have drunk this all night...however I was on a mission to try at least two more before I left! My second was Broke bankers, a marmalade, sloe gin and fig concoction which was much sharper than my initial cocktail, and served in a long glass which made it the perfect cocktail when eating rich food.

'Iced Kentucky Walnut'
Surprisingly (for our family) we were all too full to sample their desserts - however I'm sure they would have been an absolute triumph! Instead I'd had my eye on one of their cocktails, named 'Iced Kentucky Walnut' - an invention penned as their version of an espresso martini. In fact it was more like an alcoholic milkshake due to the use of cream and milk, these were combined with a shot of espresso, walnut infused bourbon and vanilla syrup. It was absolutely delicious and the perfect end to a great meal, in very impressive surroundings.

I would definitely recommend this restaurant, I think with slightly more finesse in terms of the presentation of the food, a little less rocket and a touch more thought on the flavour combinations on the dishes the food would be just as excellent as the cocktails and the surrounding environment.

http://www.the-lostandfound.co.uk/ 

Frankfurt Christmas Market, Birmingham

The Frankfurt Christmas Market has been lighting up the streets of Birmingham for 12 years and has become the centrepiece of the Birmingham Christmas calendar for both tourists and locals alike.
I decided to pay a visit at the start of December to get myself properly excited for the festive season and I certainly wasn't disappointed.

Birmingham by fairy lights!

I would definitely advise going to the market in the evening, the atmosphere is wonderful with the sheds all lit up and the smells of sausage and mulled wine filling the air. The sheds selling crafts and food are all wonderful, and some are incredibly intricate and unique, with some as high as three stories as the pictures will illustrate.

View down the street
As the market is situated down a long street I advise that you start at one end and work your way down to get the most from your visit. The first picture shows the main square which has the majority of sausage stalls and mulled wine vendors but also a building where local singers could showcase their talent.

Gluhwein mugs
Sausages
We couldn't leave without sampling some traditional Gluhwein which was absolutely delicious - they also had other flavours with more unique spirits such as Amaretto and fruit liqueurs for around £4 a mug. You have to put a deposit down for each of the mugs as they are all really unique which you get back after you give them back, however I was tempted to keep mine - it was a very sweet snowman!
























The majority of the stalls sell all sorts of food, from the incredibly detailed chocolate work to the flavoured marshmallow domes, however there are also stalls with wooden toys, Christmas decorations and present ideas. I would advise allocating at least 90 minutes to look around this magical Christmas attraction, and certainly more if you think you may be tempted by the array of 'wurst' stalls on offer.

I would definitely recommend the Christmas market in Birmingham, it really got me into the festive spirit and the mulled wine was some of the best I'd ever tasted. Being on one of the main shopping streets in Birmingham means there are plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from if you fancy a bit of warmth, we decided to visit a new place called 'The Lost and Found' for a few happy hour cocktails and a bite to eat after we had finished perusing the stalls (a blog on this unique eating establishment is to follow).